The best anti-aging serums, according to skincare experts

Whether it’s wrinkles, crow’s feet, liver spots or marionette lines, getting older is not always fun for your skin. But while rubbing a mysterious substance on your face to look younger may sound like a snake oil scheme, science surprisingly suggests the opposite about many anti-aging serums.

“More than 20 years of data shows that actives like retinol, vitamin C and peptides lead to visible improvements in wrinkles, skin texture and overall skin appearance in as little as 12 weeks of treatment,” says board-certified physician Dr. Lori Aliksanian.

Still, just because certain ingredients have been proven to reverse some signs of aging, it doesn’t mean that all anti-aging serums are created equal or suited for everyone. Read on for a comprehensive look at how to find the best anti-aging serums out there.

Our top picks for the best anti-aging serums

What to consider when buying the best anti-aging serums

Ingredients

Along with retinol, vitamin C and peptides, Aliksanian (founder of MedBeautyLA) mentions that other retinoids like retinaldehyde, as well as niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA), certain ceramides, peptides and antioxidants are all featured as key ingredients in anti-aging serums, because they have been the most extensively studied.

Finding the right anti-aging serum with powerful retinoids can be a delicate process, especially for customers who don’t know how to use retinol. Speaking of which, what does retinol do, exactly? Well, retinol is a type of retinoid, a strong vitamin A derivative that stimulates cell turnover and collagen production. This increased cell turnover can make skin more sensitive and it is not tolerated by everyone.

In contrast, vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid) “protects the skin against free radical damage and improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots and redness,” explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman. Other vitamins like niacinamide or vitamin B3 help decrease hyperpigmentation. “It also fortifies the skin barrier and has anti-inflammatory effects,” she adds.

To avoid products that use excessive filler ingredients, look for serums with these ingredients in higher concentrations. The best way to tell how much of each ingredient is used is by looking at ingredient order, which is listed from largest to smallest quantity, or by weight.

Water is almost always listed as the first ingredient for skincare products, but these other key ingredients should be towards the front. Retinol, which is gentler in smaller concentrations, can be listed towards the middle.

Age

Whether you’re looking for the best anti-aging eye cream, the best LED face masks or wondering if red light therapy is a good idea, age is an important variable to consider. The same is true for buying the best anti-aging serums for your skin.

“The desired outcome of a 25-year-old seeking an anti-aging product likely differs from that of a 50-year-old,” says Engelman. While younger people with more sensitive skin should look for products with lower concentrations of vitamin A or retinol, “Those looking to treat more advanced signs of aging are going to want products with higher concentrations of these anti-aging actives, so long as their skin can tolerate it.”

Skin type

Experts agree that there are five primary types of skin — oily, dry, combination, sensitive and normal — and different ingredients and products are typically tailored for different types. “Too often people just cause their skin more irritation instead of more benefit because they choose products with ingredients that their skin doesn't like,” warns Julie Longyear, herbal chemist and founder of the skincare brand Blissoma.

Since there is a lot of nuance within these five types and everyone's skin has varying needs and sensitivities, Longyear recommends sampling products when possible, testing a patch of skin as a precaution, and keeping a journal to understand how your skin reacts to different formulas. “You need to know your own skin conditions, allergies and sensitivities, and what you're trying to do before you even decide what to buy,” she says.

Affordability

The price point may not be the most important consideration in finding an effective anti-aging serum, but it may be a deciding factor — after all, it doesn’t matter if you find the best retinol cream if you can’t afford to use it regularly. The good news is that expensive does not always equate to the best skincare products. “Some very high-end brands at high price points contain a lot of filler ingredients but a low percentage of beneficial actives,” warns Aliksanian.

Behavior

Your day-to-day habits are also an important consideration when purchasing anti-aging serum. If you do not keep a consistent nighttime routine, it may be better to pick a serum with retinol that only needs to be worn two or three nights a week. On the other hand, “If you are not a person who will realistically wear sunscreen daily, I would not recommend a product that will make your skin more sun sensitive, like retinol,” says Aliksanian. “This can actually expedite visible signs of aging when used without sunscreen.”

How we selected the best anti-aging serums

The science of skincare is well researched, so we relied on current studies on key ingredients used in anti-aging serums and clinical trials conducted by brands. The opinions of doctors, other skincare experts and customer reviews were taken into account as well.

Frequently asked questions (FAQs)

Do anti-aging serums really work?

It is true that some key ingredients used in anti-aging serums are backed by research, and this includes many of the ingredients mentioned in our recommendations — retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA) and certain ceramides, peptides and antioxidants.

However, every expert agrees that the efficacy has to do with there being a high enough concentration and quality of these ingredients to reduce wrinkles, as well as smooth and brighten the skin, but not so much that it irritates or even damages the skin. The latter is a much trickier balance to strike with serum formulas that are marketed to all skin types. Consequently, to some extent, skeptics are correct.

“There are a lot of cosmetic products that really don't do much for the skin, or can even cause irritation,” Longyear notes. “It’s very possible for a serum to feel and smell nice but not have any real benefits beyond how it feels to use it.”

Experts like Engleman acknowledge that even clinically-backed serums that are highly reviewed for their efficacy can only do so much. “Topical solutions only have so much capacity to change the appearance of skin,” she says. “So it’s important to ground yourself in realistic expectations and stay consistent with a routine.”

At what age should you start using anti-aging serums?

This depends on the product. Serums with a lot of antioxidants can be used at any age because they prevent free radicals created from the sun, stress and inflammation from damaging skin cells. “Products that are mainly focused on antioxidants are fine to use at pretty much any age because everyone's body creates free radicals,” Longyear explains. “However, people will get more benefit out of them as they get older.”

That said, serums that are marketed as “anti-aging” usually include some sort of chemical compound to accelerate cell turnover, like retinoids or peptides, or plump the skin, like hyaluronic acid. Since these can disrupt natural repair processes of the skin, they should be avoided until your 30s, Longyear advises. “The skin concerns that mature skin faces are just very different from that of a teen or 20-something because it's a very different stage of life in every way.”

What are the key ingredients to look for in anti-aging serums?

The key ingredients to look for in anti-aging serums are the ones that have the most research behind them, such as retinoids like retinol and retinal, vitamin C or ascorbic acid, niacinamide or vitamin B3. Ceramides like phytosphingosine and sphingosine, peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and antioxidants like resveratrol and ferulic acid have also shown promising results for anti-aging effects.

When should you apply anti-aging serums?

The directions for many anti-aging serums say to use them at night, partly because this is when the natural repairing processes of the skin take place. These instructions also have to do with the ingredients being used. Retinoids and glycolic acid, or alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), increase sun sensitivity, so using them during the day can backfire and speed up the signs of aging. That is why daytime use should be avoided.

Serums with niacinamide, peptides, ceramides, antioxidants and products specifically marketed towards sensitive skin types tend to be safer for daytime use; however, because everyone’s skin has the potential to react differently, it’s important to look up any unknown key ingredients, test a patch of skin first and consult with a dermatologist if necessary.

When investing in expensive products, it makes some sense to want a serum that you can slather on at any time of day. But that is not always what’s best, Aliksanian warns. “More is definitely not always better when it comes to applying your skin care products.”