< Young Afghan musicians are rebuilding their art together, in Portugal

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Three years ago, nearly 300 young Afghan musicians, their teachers and staff from their music school fled Afghanistan in fear for their lives after their country fell again to the Taliban. NPR followed them on their journey from Kabul to a new life. And since then, they have been rebuilding their community as refugees in northern Portugal. NPR culture correspondent Anastasia Tsioulcas visited the musicians as they began to put down roots and recently caught up with them again, just before they tour the U.S.

ANASTASIA TSIOULCAS, BYLINE: The Afghanistan National Institute of Music represented an exciting vision of Afghanistan.

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TSIOULCAS: It brought together kids from all over the country, boys and girls, from vastly different socioeconomic circumstances, ethnicities and language groups, says Ahmad Sarmast, the school's director. He founded the school in 2010.

AHMAD SARMAST: I think one thing that connects us is not just our nationality or language or religion, but playing music, making music together also plays a significant role in keeping our identity as a community.

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TSIOULCAS: And that shared love of music is what binds them together.

SARMAST: The group is very diverse, like Afghanistan itself. The community of the Afghanistan National Institute of Music is a mosaic - a small mosaic of the beautiful, diverse Afghanistan.

TSIOULCAS: Even before the Taliban seized power again in 2021, everyone at the school knew that they were still at serious risk. The danger became very real. A suicide bomber attacked one of their concerts and severely injured Sarmast, who was sitting just a few seats from the attacker.

SARMAST: Our school was in the high list - hit list of the Taliban. They attacked one of our performances in 2014, where two people were killed and I was injured.

TSIOULCAS: Sarmast was nearly killed in that attack, with 11 pieces of shrapnel lodged in his skull, and his hearing was severely damaged. Over the next several years, there were several more planned attacks on the school and Sarmast himself, which were foiled. Once the Taliban resiezed control of Afghanistan in 2021, he felt there was no other choice. Once again, schooling for girls past the sixth grade has been banned. So has playing and listening to music, and the Taliban have seized and burned instruments.

SARMAST: We knew, when the Taliban going to come, our school will be the first target, and it will be the beginning of another cultural genocide.

TSIOULCAS: So in the fall of 2021, with the assistance of the governments of Qatar and Portugal, students, faculty, staff and some family members were airlifted out of Kabul and resettled together as a community. They were going to re-create the musical heart of Afghanistan in northern Portugal. I visited them in Portugal in the fall of 2022, not long after they'd been moved permanently to a quiet area not far from the border with Spain.

UNIDENTIFIED PERSON #1: (Non-English language spoken).

TSIOULCAS: They were still settling in, enrolling in local schools and getting used to the food. I ate lunch with some of the teenage students at a local Catholic charitable organization, where most of them politely pushed plainly-cooked fish and overboiled Brussels sprouts around their plates. It was a world away from the spiced meats and pilafs of their homeland. But the taste of home came when they pulled out their instruments, such as the sitar, santoor and rubab, and began rehearsing traditional Afghan music.

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TSIOULCAS: They love playing and are fulfilling their lifetime dreams of being musicians. But also, they understand their responsibilities, says 15-year-old Zohra Ahmadi, who plays trumpet.

ZOHRA AHMADI: We are voice of a country that has no music. So it's a bit sad to think about it - that we are the only ones playing music.

TSIOULCAS: Sarmast, the school's director, says now the school's mission has expanded and become even more urgent. He says his students must be the ones to preserve their country's music from more than 4,000 miles away. He says it's not just a mission. It's a duty to the country they had to flee.

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SARMAST: Now, we are responsible for safeguarding Afghan music, advocating for the music rights and cultural rights of the Afghan people and for freedom of expression through music in all its forms and freedom - also actively advocating for stopping gender apartheid in Afghanistan.

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UNIDENTIFIED PERSON #2: (Non-English language spoken).

TSIOULCAS: While they're in the midst of learning so much material, celebrating the rich, ancient and deep musical traditions from across Afghanistan, they're also solidly becoming part of a new country. Seventeen-year-old Elham Asefi plays guitar. He says the Portuguese locals have been very welcoming and friendly and are patient in helping them master yet another language.

ELHAM ASEFI: The Portugal people - they're very kind. Like, they help us.

TSIOULCAS: And at long last, many of the students are looking forward to being reunited with family members in Portugal - hopefully very soon, Sarmast says.

SARMAST: We are all waiting arrival of the families from Afghanistan to Portugal. We have the approval of the government of Portugal - of previous government - that's accepted 368 people to reunite with their families.

TSIOULCAS: In the meantime, these young Afghan musicians are finally back to touring internationally, bringing their music and message to new audiences. They'll be performing at Carnegie Hall in New York City on Wednesday evening and at the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C., the following night.

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UNIDENTIFIED MUSICAL ARTIST: (Singing in non-English language).

TSIOULCAS: Both trumpeter Zohra Ahmadi and guitarist Elham Asefi are thrilled to be visiting the States and particularly to perform at Carnegie.

ZOHRA: I'm really excited.

ASEFI: Really excited - it's a big stage - the stage that we play, Carnegie Hall. Every musician has a dream to play there.

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UNIDENTIFIED MUSICAL ARTIST: (Singing in non-English language).

TSIOULCAS: They say that, no matter what, they will continue to be a voice for Afghanistan across the world - a voice that refuses to be silenced.

Anastasia Tsioulcas, NPR News, New York.

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