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Sean Goh's Reviews > 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes: Navigation Through the Maze of Advice for the Self-coached Climber
9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes: Navigation Through the Maze of Advice for the Self-coached Climber
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Difficult to parse due to little meaningful organisation. Contains thought-provoking content like suck it up and work on your weaknesses, and be kind to yourself. Climb smart, keep at it, short term pain for long-term gains.
The rest is details.
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It's crucial to think through how others see your climbing, and the effect of your expectations of yourself. Climbers often have unrealistic expectations of themselves, for example to be able to
reproduce previous highpoints of performance after a layoff. The first step is to really honest with yourself about the true level of your climbing, and how restricted it is to certain strengths you have. Then understand how little your performance ultimately matters to others. See yourself as the underdog.
Spending time working in the comfort of your strengths or relying on them borrows strength from your best assets of talents. But borrowing strength builds weakness.
Technique training - replaying movements of recent climbs and analysing peculiarities and subtleties. Both actual climbing and reflection are important components of the learning process.
Break habits of climbing passively without thinking too much.
Strength is only useful when it can be applied fully. Momentum use gives your strength a huge amount of leverage.
Look for the board/angle/move type you are weakest on, and spend two to three sessions on that per one session on in your comfort zone type of climbing.
The nature of static contractions of the forearm muscle when we grip holds also limits aerobic metabolism by squeezing muscle blood vesel shut under pressure, interrupting the supply of oxygen.
Complete exhaustion of muscle glycogen stores happens after many hours straight climbing, or too many consecutive days training for the body to recover from. This significantly extends recovery time. This feeling is one of rapid and complete loss of strength, where even massive holds are a struggle to hold on to.
Fear of falling, if left unchecked, changes your movement technique in a subtle way, making it more inefficient and affecting you on every climb you try. Over control attempts, like overgripping and climbing statically, emerge.
Age isn't a barrier to getting good at climbing. Usually the barriers are mental.
A common error in choosing the climbs to do to get better at climbing is to climb only routes at your current level. This is not the way training works. Climbing above your level will cause falls, struggles and pain. And eventually you'll improve.
The only inertia working in opposition to this desire for breakthrough is fear. Fear of loss, fear of effort and fear of failure. Getting past these isn't easy. The desire simply has to outweigh the short term pain. Know that pain wil be short term really helps. Once that happens, the real improvement can start.
The rest is details.
___
It's crucial to think through how others see your climbing, and the effect of your expectations of yourself. Climbers often have unrealistic expectations of themselves, for example to be able to
reproduce previous highpoints of performance after a layoff. The first step is to really honest with yourself about the true level of your climbing, and how restricted it is to certain strengths you have. Then understand how little your performance ultimately matters to others. See yourself as the underdog.
Spending time working in the comfort of your strengths or relying on them borrows strength from your best assets of talents. But borrowing strength builds weakness.
Technique training - replaying movements of recent climbs and analysing peculiarities and subtleties. Both actual climbing and reflection are important components of the learning process.
Break habits of climbing passively without thinking too much.
Strength is only useful when it can be applied fully. Momentum use gives your strength a huge amount of leverage.
Look for the board/angle/move type you are weakest on, and spend two to three sessions on that per one session on in your comfort zone type of climbing.
The nature of static contractions of the forearm muscle when we grip holds also limits aerobic metabolism by squeezing muscle blood vesel shut under pressure, interrupting the supply of oxygen.
Complete exhaustion of muscle glycogen stores happens after many hours straight climbing, or too many consecutive days training for the body to recover from. This significantly extends recovery time. This feeling is one of rapid and complete loss of strength, where even massive holds are a struggle to hold on to.
Fear of falling, if left unchecked, changes your movement technique in a subtle way, making it more inefficient and affecting you on every climb you try. Over control attempts, like overgripping and climbing statically, emerge.
Age isn't a barrier to getting good at climbing. Usually the barriers are mental.
A common error in choosing the climbs to do to get better at climbing is to climb only routes at your current level. This is not the way training works. Climbing above your level will cause falls, struggles and pain. And eventually you'll improve.
The only inertia working in opposition to this desire for breakthrough is fear. Fear of loss, fear of effort and fear of failure. Getting past these isn't easy. The desire simply has to outweigh the short term pain. Know that pain wil be short term really helps. Once that happens, the real improvement can start.
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