London Fashion Week SS25 Highlights: Bora Aksu And Mark Fast

London Fashion Week commemorated its 40^th anniversary during the February LFW, but the September season was another chance to celebrate this milestone.

“London and London Fashion Week have always been about creativity and experimentation, almost like a greenhouse for talent to express themselves and showcase their work on a major fashion-world stage, which isn’t the case at other Fashion Weeks,” says luxury fashion and lifestyle consultant, Avshalom Gur.

Therefore, it should come as no surprise that highlights were delivered by U.K. based designers who managed to balance a powerful sense of novelty with a confident signature.

Bora Aksu SS25

Turkish designer Bora Aksu revealed the personal importance of this collection during a sneak preview at his studio. “I lost my mum in January this year,” he shared, “I wanted to dedicate the entire collection to her. She was my shelter and muse growing up.” Longtime followers of Aksu’s oeuvre will know that his mother’s influence—both her style and personality—is always present in his work, in varying degrees. This is perhaps the most undiluted homage yet.

Belted jackets and narrow silhouettes echo a distinctly 1960s femininity, while repeated layering is a nod to her habit of wearing a white lab coat on top of her outfits—Aksu’s mother was a doctor.

Elsewhere we see Aksu’s emblematic tiered tulle, draped in airy, almost-Grecian folds. Light-as-sea-foam lace and delicate embroidery make their customary appearance.

The models all sport a replica of the bouffant beehive with a straight parting that Aksu’s mother rocked during the cultural decade. A moodboard in his studio highlights this hairdo, as well as her penchant for cat’s eye sunglasses, which were also faithfully mirrored on the catwalk.

Aksu recently won the prestigious Goodwood ‘Fashion in Talent’ award, selected by a panel of judges that included the Duke of Richmond and Caroline Rush the chief executive of the British Fashion Council. Three sublime gowns made by Aksu—confections in pure pastel shades, with puffed sleeves and trains of tulle—will remain as part of a permanent fashion collection at Goodwood.

“I always believed that fashion is something you can do as a job, but you need to absolutely love it, it almost needs to be a part of you,” Aksu shares. “Because it lives in you, sometimes you carry on without realizing how much love and effort you’re putting into creating. When awards like this come along, they make you pause, smile and appreciate. It’s humbling.”

Mark Fast SS25

Meanwhile, Mark Fast has delivered an electrifying collection that comes straight from the rave scene. “The energy of discovering new sounds drives my designs,” Fast says, “and my Spring/Summer 2025 collection is all about blending couture craftsmanship with sportswear, fueled by my love for music.”

Showing in East London’s Bike Shed, rather than in one of the more customary historical locations, is a nod to the underground clubs that inspires him. “For me, it's more than just making clothes—it's about creating a lifestyle rooted in non-conformity and self-expression,” he explains.

As always with Fast, the wearer’s body transforms the clothes into a moving element, molding to curves like a second skin. His trademark knit is ever-present, but less common in the Fast universe is a visible foray into sportswear with flashes of elastic mesh and wind-resistant fabrics, creating pieces that are “functional but still luxe”. The colors—from black and grey to vibrant lilacs and neons—capture that rebellious club vibe that drives his vision.

“A standout for me is the Stone Rose Crochet Dress with bold fringing—it shows off my passion for intricate details and modern design,” Fast notes. There is a sense that Fast is rounding out his offering with more complete layered looks in this collection, while delivering the thrill of a cutting-edge trend; a longstanding skill that has netted him a stalwart celebrity clientele (among which are names such as Rihanna, Beyoncé and Nicki Minaj).

As the British Fashion Council closes their anniversary year, Fast describes the London scene as “moving at a super creative pace. We’ve got the boldness to push fashion in new directions.”

Clearly, these two designers have the experience “to easily lead, and fit alongside, youthful newcomers while growing their companies,” luxury consultant Gur points out. This season is proof that Aksu and Fast can push their own limits while remaining truly authentic.